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More Great Information on Double Gear:
Thor Flux Gear by Toby Williams
Thor makes racewear, which means they make riding gear for high performance riders. Thor racewear is for riders who demand great performance from their machines and from their gear. Thor is for winners, because if the gear slows you down, then winners won't wear it. So Thor racewear is designed to enhance the performance of the rider and help put you in the winner's circle.
When Thor introduced the Flux line of gear they created the ultimate hybrid, offering serious race performance with just the right amount of venting. The Flux kit is everything you would expect in a premium set of race equipment. Thor went even further, with all new chassis designs that fit better, cool better and perform better lap after lap, moto after moto. Thor sweated over the smallest details to ensure that riders would sweat less.
The Flux jersey is constructed from light-weight vented mesh paneling for increased airflow during hot motos. There are also direct-injected silicone logo treatments on both the front and back that will out-last the competition. The Flux jersey is designed for advanced riders seeking performance gear with integrated cooling and superior fit.
Flux Jersey Selling Points:
"Moisture wicking chassis construction with padded elbows
"Fully vented sleeves and insert chest panel for increased airflow
"No-bind collar features multiple stretch panels for a perfect fit.
"Silicone tail print keeps the jersey from riding up when tucked into pants
"Stretch-rib cuff gussets for perfect fit at wrists
Matching the Flux jersey is the Flux pant. The Flux Pants feature an engineered chassis that positively contours to the rider's body to support the proper racing posture. The pre-curved 900D Polyoxford chassis combines perforated and solid paneling to increase cooling and support your race posture. PU Lycra combines with molded TPR to create a rear yoke that contours the body for just the right amount of mobility and support. It also helps make these riding pants extremely comfortable while on the bike. There are debossed full grain cowhide leather inner knee panels, which offer great heat resistance and durability. Accordion stretch Dura knee panels also offer expansion and ventilation at this joint. Thor Motocross continues to employ the highly touted, custom ratchet style waist closure as well as their Ride-Lite perforated inner liner with a Lycra panel at the waist line for additional mobility. And these pants can take a beating, thanks to the double and triple needle stitching and Kevlar stitching around the leather knee panels. Developed and tested with input from riders suck as Supercross Champion Ryan Villopoto, Flux pants deliver the performance of a premium piece of racing equipment. That is why Thor Motocross likes to call the Flux line "The Next Level."
Flux Pant Selling Points:
"Pre-curved 900D poly oxford chassis with perforated and solid paneling increases cooling and supports your race posture
"Strategically placed thigh TPR's with integrated vent panels.
"Kevlar stitching around leather knee panels.
"Accordion stretch Spandura knee panels for expansion and ventilation.
"Lightweight, cupped TPR knee paneling for roost deflection
" Debossed full grain cowhide leather inner knee panels offer unmatched heat resistance and durability
"Ride-Lite perforated inner liner with 4-way spandex panel at the waist for uninhibited movement
"Ratchet style waist with lock-down closure
"4-way stretch rear yoke contours the body in all positions
Thor racewear is the choice of champions all over the world and they are committed to constantly improving and refining their amazing line of products to help put riders on the top of the podium. In 2011 Thor riders won almost every major Supercross, Motocross, and Off-Road Championship in the United States and the world. MxMegastore can tell you more about Flux racewear and you can see the full line of Thor products by visiting www.mxmegastore.com.
http://motorcycle.mxmegastore.com/search/index?query=201220Flux
If you'd like more information about Flux Gear from THOR contact MxMegastore at 877-YOU-MOTO or check out our huge selection of motocross gear at www.mxmegastore.com
http://motorcycle.mxmegastore.com/search/index?query=201220Flux
Article Source: http://www.earticlesonline.com/Article/Thor-Flux-Gear/1319685
In a double gear shift which gear do you change first?
I'm an adult beginner cyclist and a friend has loaned me her road bike to try. It has 2 on the crank and 9 at the back. I've been starting on the smallest crank wheel and working up through the gears. When I reach the top what should I do next? I don't want to damage her bike.
Don't worry ~ you're not going to damage the bike, but there are a couple of things you want to avoid...
Don't ride in gear combinations that put the chain in an exteme angle ~ large chainring and large cog, and small chainring and small cog. You should be riding with the chain somewhere in the middle of the the 9 gears on back. Select the chainring on the cranks that allows you to stay in that optimum combination.
Another thing to consider is your cadence ~ or how fast you are pedaling. You should be spinning the cranks anywhere from 70 to 90 RPM's. Select the gear combination that allows you to do that. This is why there are so many gears on today's bikes. There are only one or two tooth differences between gears which allows a cyclist to make subtle changes in order to maintain his or her spin.
Also, it is not necessary to go through all of the gears while you're riding. It's not like driving a car or riding a motorcyle ~ where you start out in first gear and then go to second, and so on.
This is how I ride ~ I start out on the small chainring with a gear selection that places the chain somewhere in the middle of the rear cassette. Once I get moving pretty fast, and where my spin is near the top of my desired RPM's, I shift to the large chainring and make whatever adjustments are necessary so that I can maintain my spin. I shift back down to the small chainring in the front before coming to a stop. Then I start the same way I did before, and then shift back to the large chainring. If I find that I have to keep making adjustments that bring me close to the large cog on the rear wheel, then I shift back down to the small chainring in front, and find a gear combination on the rear wheel that allows me to maintain my spin.
Hope that helps.
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