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More Great Information on Easy Pull:
How to Install and Pull Wire In Your Home by Tim Matheson
Whether it's installing new lights in the kitchen, a new surround sound system in the living room, or moving a cable TV or network outlet, pulling and running wire is a part of almost every DIY project. Having remodeled my own home and run plenty of electrical and cable TV wiring, I've had experience pulling cables in most situations. The worst one, and the one that motivated my trial and error, was running electrical wires for some new can lights in the ceiling. Picture a tight attic space, probably 120 degrees, insulation everywhere, and me lowering wire down the wall while my wife looked for it with a flashlight through the outlet hole. I would not wish that on anyone! Nearly everyone I've spoken to has a similar story, so I've identified the two most popular types of tools to get those DIY wiring jobs done: fish tape and push-pull rods.
Fish Tape, or "steel tape" as it's sometimes called, is obviously not really tape of any kind. It's a reel of flat steel that works a little like the retractable power cords in irons and vacuum cleaners; you know the ones that you pull the cord out of the inside of the iron, kind of feeding it out of an internal reel until you get it to the desired length and plug it in? This flat steel tape on a reel comes in a variety of lengths, from 25 feet to 250 feet, is usually about a 12-inch hoop, and operates on the same principal; you hold the stable section and then pull, hard, to let out the tape to the length that you need.
Scenario: You want to add four new recessed lights in the living room, have access to the attic, and for some masochistic reason you refuse to hire a professional. I say "add" so we can assume you're going over installing a light switch, you have one already done, and now want to put your new lights on the same circuit as an existing one. After all, we're talking about pulling wires, not whether you're following code or will not be lighting yourself up like a Christmas tree. AND you have no handy-dandy tools to help you run the wires. Imagine you have cut two holes in the ceiling, eight feet apart. You can see those holes you cut in the ceiling, which will be approximately eight feet apart for our example. You want to run your electrical wire (substitute speaker wire if you're installing those in your imagination instead) from one hole to the other.
Let's either assume you've decided to avoid the trip into the attic, or there's no space up there at all, so you'll need to work from on top of a ladder. Fun!
Normally those holes are going to be about four inches in diameter, so you could tie a rock to the end of your wire, stick your arm through the hole, and try a toss or two, but let's assume that doesn't work . . . because it doesn't.
Fish Tape: It's a little heavy and awkward to get the reel up the ladder, and because it takes two hands to deploy it by feeding out the tape, I'm just going to call it the wrong choice right off the bat.
Push- Pull Rod: There are a lot more varieties of these to choose from than the fish tape. We'll take a look at two types as representative of the group. Type 1 is really common. It's a 15-foot set that consists of three 5-foot fiberglass rods. The rods are about 3/16" thick. One rod has an "eye" at the end, like the backend of a really large needle. The set comes in a storage tube that's about 6-foot long. This solution works really well! You can just take two of the rods up the ladder, they're light and not too long, screw them together, and "push" them in one hole and out the other. Then move the ladder, thread your wire through the eye if it's small enough (electrical wire is too big, so you'll need to duct tape it on), switch your ladder back and pull. Done!
A few things to watch out for: 1) If the rods are used, watch out for getting fiberglass on your hands. Wear gloves. 2) The ends are metal, PLEASE make sure your power in that room is off just in case you hit a live wire. 3) Watch how much you bend these, they can shatter. 4) Expense -- these sets can be as much as $80.
Type 2 of the push-pull rods is a pretty new product. I'll mention it by name because it's the only one: Mille-Rod Polymer Series. These rods come in a 14-foot set, but instead of 5-foot lengths, it's made up of 14-inch sticks that screw together. They come in the same kind of carry tube as the fiberglass set, only this one is only 18 inches long. The set will clip or tie to your belt or go in a tool box, so no worries getting up that ladder. We know we need at least 8 feet to get from hole to hole, so we can just screw seven of the pieces together, then repeat everything we did in the first push-pull rod example. The Mille-Rods comes with 5 attachments: 1 hook, 1 claw, 2 eyes, and a bullet for poking through insulation. Also, the pieces aren't all the same flexibility. There are 4 black ones that are really stiff and are helpful in reaching over the rafters, etc., 4 red ones that are pretty flexible, like the fiberglass rods, and 4 flat ones that will bend 360 degrees. I like the flat ones for the end because you can bend them down through the hole without damaging them if you need to. Here are the other big differences and why I like this choice: 1) I like the claw! It's big enough that you can just wrap it around the claw attachment and pull. No tape necessary. 2) No metal. Everything is made of plastic, so you don't have to worry about sparks. 3) They can NEVER shatter and come with a lifetime warranty. 4) Cheaper -- the 14' set is $29.95.
After trying the above methods, along with a host of other improvised (dangerous) methods, the Mille-Rod Polymer Series will be my choice every time.
Tim Matheson is a writer for Mille-Com, inventors of the revolutionary Mille-Rod for all home wiring needs. House wiring and DIY home improvement projects are made easy with push-pull rods by Mille-Com.
Article Source: http://www.earticlesonline.com/Article/How-to-Install-and-Pull-Wire-In-Your-Home/904396
How to remove original oem in dash 6 cd changer on a 2003 ford f150 SD truck?
I bought the Din Radio removal tools to remove the factory radio unit from my truck but I am having trouble pulling it out. The right removal tool will go into the unit perfectly and will click but the left removal tool will not go in and will not click. Therefore, the stereo unit will not come out. This was suppose to be easy, pulling my stereo unit out is a lot tougher than what I imagine. I wonder what I am doing wrong. Is there another way to remove the factory stereo?
My desire is to install a Peripheral PXFD98 (aux input) so I can connect my Archos mp3 player without losing my in dash 6 cd changer. I was told I needed to check the back of the factory stereo to see if it had a 16-pin and 20-pin connectors. I have not purchased anything outside of the Radio removal tool. What other aux input options do I have with my particular factory unit? Thanks
It takes finesse on some of these radios. Take it to a car audio shop. We usually could get them out. Honestly on the more difficult units, you have to know what you are feeling for. Also, are you sure you don't have to take a bezel piece off from around the deck?
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